Carretera Austral Cycling Guide for 2023

JUMP TO:  PROS &  CONS  |  WHAT TO EXPECT | HISTORY & BACKGROUND | WHEN TO GO  | DIRECTION | HOW TO GET THERE | CAMPSITES & ACCOMMODATION | NAVIGATION | RESUPPLY & WATER | BIKE SELECTION & REPAIR |  NON-BIKE TRANSPORT  | WHAT TO PACK | SIDE ACTIVITIES & DETOURS | EXTENSIONS

Author: Tristan Ridley | Updated: Feb 13, 2023
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One of the most beautiful, popular, and iconic cycle touring routes in the world, the Carretera Austral runs for around 1200 kilometres (750 miles) through Chilean Patagonia, passing through some of the wildest and most spectacular landscapes in South America.

Although the full length of the road was only completed in the year 2000, a mere twenty years ago, its beauty, relative logistical simplicity, and supreme adventure appeal have quickly made it the most well-ridden road in South America, with thousands of bicycle travellers flocking to Patagonia to cycle the route every year.

In this comprehensive guide, I'll run through everything you need to know to cycle the Carretera Austral, as well as some insider tips you won't find anywhere else. Vamos a empezar!

WHAT TO EXPECT

What scenery is found along the Carretera Austral?

Patagonia is renowned for its wild, varied and breathtakingly beautiful landscapes, so it's no surprise that most people are drawn to the Carretera for its scenery. From the start of the road at Puerto Montt to the finish at Villa O'Higgins, you can expect to be dazzled each and every day.

With a seemingly endless supply of rugged snowy mountains, glistening glaciers, roaring rivers and picturesque lakes, Chilean Patagonia is well deserving of its reputation as one of the most spectacular places on the planet.

How long will it take to cycle the Carretera Austral?

With the Carretera Austral running at just over 1200 kilometres (750) miles, the amount of time needed to cycle the route will vary greatly depending on rider fitness and the number of detours, days off, and side activities made.

Many of these off-the-bike experiences are fantastic so I would suggest allowing plenty of time rather than rushing through, with a minimum of three weeks for the full route, and preferably a full month or longer. If you’re pressed for time you also have the option of riding shorter sections instead of taking on the whole route at once.

Progress on the Carretera will likely be slower than expected for most riders, due partly to the physical challenge (especially in the south) but also because you will likely be stopping more than you think, for breaks, to appreciate the scenery, and to add or remove clothing layers as the weather changes throughout the day.

What fitness level is required to cycle the Carretera Austral?

As a cyclist, you should expect a solid physical challenge, as the Carretera has a fair amount of climbing, although, with a few exceptions, most of the climbs are relatively short and undulating rather than long and sustained. Nevertheless, you will have to spend a lot of time pedalling uphill, so the Carretera should not be underestimated; it is definitely not an easy route to cycle.

Is the Carretera Austral route paved?

Just over half of the route is now paved as of 2023, with the majority of the northern half of the route between Puerto Montt and Cerro Castillo now comprising smooth surfaces.

The southern half, from just below Cerro Castillo to Villa O'Higgins, is comprised almost entirely of gravel roads, known in Patagonia as 'ripio'. These roads can vary greatly in quality, with everything from smooth hardpack to deep and exhausting gravel.

The Chilean government is continuing to extend the paved sections and it is only a matter of time until the entire route is paved, but until then, it will often be much harder going in the southern part of the route.

What are traffic conditions like on the Carretera Austral?

Even in peak season, traffic conditions are generally fine along the Carretera. Most drivers are respectful of cyclists, although obviously this can never be guaranteed. The road can get very dusty in some sections, and you might occasionally get sprayed with light gravel by passing cars, which can be frustrating, but it's usually merely annoying rather than truly dangerous.

The busiest areas for traffic are in the north on the paved sections, with the traffic gradually lessening the further south you go. By the time you reach Villa O'Higgins at the end of the route, traffic will be very low and you will usually have the road to yourself.

Is it safe to cycle along the Carretera Austral?

Overall, the Carretera is a pretty safe place to cycle. Due to the remoteness and lack of people, issues with crime or harassment are very uncommon. There are no poisonous or dangerous animals to worry about; pumas do roam in some areas but they are very shy so attacks on humans are exceptionally rare. Your main challenge will likely be the weather, but as long as you are adequately prepared, there should be nothing to worry about.

What accommodation options are along the Carretera Austral?

Camping is a major part of the experience and will provide major highlights, with many options along the way including private campsites, hotels, wilderness huts (known as refugios), and endless opportunities for wild camping in nature.

Wild camping is all but necessary for the Carretera due to the long distances between settlements, but although this may feel daunting at first for some, the practice is common and widely accepted in Patagonia, so it's likely that wild camping will quickly become one of your favourite aspects of travelling the route.

What weather should I expect along the Carretera Austral?

Patagonia is also famous (or perhaps notorious) for its weather, so you should expect this to play a major role in your trip. Rain is almost a given, and strong winds are a virtual guarantee, so it's important to make sure you're adequately prepared with proper clothing and equipment to stay comfortable when the storms roll in.

It's common to see all four seasons in the space of just one day, so you'll need a well-layered system that's versatile enough to cope with the meteorological variety.

What money is accepted along the Carretera Austral?

Credit cards will be accepted in some places, but not all, especially in the more remote areas, so it's recommended to bring along some cash to cover yourself. Most of the smaller towns will not have banks or ATMs, so it's best to take some cash out at Puerto Montt, and then again at Coyhaique. You can also bring US dollars and convert them as you go. The local currency is the Chilean Peso.

Is there internet along the Carretera Austral?

You can often find wifi in towns at campsites, guesthouses, or public libraries, but it's usually fairly slow. I would recommend buying a local SIM card for mobile data, as this is straightforward, relatively cheap, and can be done in Puerto Montt. Entel generally has the best coverage. Don't expect to have much signal between towns, but considering the remoteness of the area, it's actually better than you might think.

Will I need to speak Spanish when cycling the Carretera Austral?

It's well worth learning at least some basic Spanish, as you're not likely to find many people that speak English outside of the larger towns and tourist areas.

HISTORY & BACKGROUND

Construction of the Carretera Austral began in 1976 under the order of Augusto Pinochet, the military dictator who governed Chile for 17 years, following a successful coup in 1973.

Prior to the creation of the Carretera, much of the southernmost parts of Chile were largely disconnected from the rest of the country. The rugged landscapes, thick with steep mountains, rivers, glaciers, forests, marshes, and cliffs, made access by land incredibly difficult, requiring entry via the nearby Argentinian border to the east, while access by water or air was also challenging due to the extreme weather conditions found in Patagonia.

At a time when border disputes with Argentina meant Chile wanted greater control over its territory, the Carretera was therefore constructed to connect the strategic region of Aysen to its neighbouring district of Los Lagos to the north, and thus the rest of the country.

Building the Carretera was an enormous, impressive, and incredibly expensive project, particularly due to the rugged terrain, harsh weather, and the general isolation of the region. After 24 years of construction, the route was finally completed in 2000, with the road coming to its end at Villa O'Higgins, where the presence of the Campo de Hielo Sur, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, as well as the Argentine border, makes further progress towards Chile's most southerly region of Magallanes even more difficult.

For now, Magallanes remains stranded, with no road access to the rest of Chile. Development is ongoing to further extend the Carretera south to Puerto Natales, but it is likely to take many more years before this is complete.

WHEN TO GO

SUMMER (PEAK SEASON): The best time to ride the Carretera is generally during the summer months. Peak season is from mid-December to the end of February, with February being the most popular month in the region. Temperatures and weather conditions are likely to be best during this period, although extended rain and colder weather can occur in Patagonia throughout the year. February on the Carretera can be exceptionally busy, both with other cyclists and with tourists in general, so unless this appeals to you my suggestion would be to go with December or January.

SHOULDER SEASONS: For those that prefer a quieter experience, however, visiting during the shoulder seasons, late October, November, and March, might be the best option. The weather will be slightly worse on average, with colder temperatures and a higher chance of rain, but the road will also be much quieter, with far fewer tourists in the area. Personally, this is when I would choose to do the Carretera if riding it again, but many will enjoy the community atmosphere that comes from sharing the road with so many other cyclists in peak season, so base your decision on the kind of experience you are looking for.

WINTER: Cycling in winter is also possible but should only be done by experienced and well-prepared riders. Sub-zero temperatures, snow, sleet, ice and hail will all present additional challenges, daylight hours will be short, many services will be closed for the season, and ferries will run rarely or not at all. The rewards for all this will be unmatched beauty and the roads almost entirely to yourself, but Patagonia in winter will appeal to only a very hardcore few.

DIRECTION

The Carretera Austral can be ridden in either direction, but for most people, I would recommend doing the route from north to south, starting in Puerto Montt and finishing at Villa O'Higgins – for the reasons outlined below. That said, cycling from the south is absolutely fine as well. Personally, I cycled the route from south to north as it was part of a much longer crossing of the Americas, and I never felt like riding it in the opposite direction was a problem.

DOMINANT WINDS: Although less of a factor on the Carretera than in some other parts of Patagonia, the notorious Patagonian winds, which almost always come from the west-northwest, are likely to be slightly more in your favour if riding south, although it is almost inevitable that you will find yourself riding into a headwind at some point no matter which direction you go.

PROGRESSIVELY MORE CHALLENGE: Starting in the north has the advantage of giving you time to get accustomed to the experience and build up your fitness before hitting the toughest sections of the route further along. The southern half is generally more challenging as it is unpaved and more remote, and the weather also tends to be more extreme the further south you go.

OTHER CYCLISTS: Because the majority of cyclists do the route from north to south, if you do choose to ride it in the other direction, as I did, you should expect to cross paths with a great many cyclists every day; on a few occasions, I saw as many as 40 incoming riders in a single day. Some will like this, while for others it may feel a little too 'touristy'. In general, my suggestion would be to ride from north to south, as I think the experience will be slightly more enjoyable and immersive.

HOW TO GET THERE

PUERTO MONTT (NORTHERN TERMINUS): Flights are cheap and regular from Santiago to Puerto Montt, and long-distance buses are also available if you prefer not to fly.

VILLA O’HIGGINS (SOUTHERN TERMINUS): Getting to or from the opposite end of the Carretera at Villa O'Higgins is a little trickier, but your best bet will be to take a bus from O'Higgins back to first Cochrane and then Coyhaique, where there is another airport (Balmaceda) with flights to both Santiago and Buenos Aires.

Be aware, however, that in peak season these buses can sometimes be booked out for weeks in advance, so if you are planning on flying back from Coyhaique, I would strongly recommend making reservations in good time.

CAMPSITES & ACCOMMODATION

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION: Finding places to sleep is generally easy and straightforward along the Carretera. There are private campsites dotted along the route, as well as lodges and guesthouses for those wanting a bed. Prices can vary substantially, with campsites charging anything from $5-20 per night, and beds usually starting from around $20, but typically going for at least $30-50 per night. If staying at private campsites in towns, be aware that things can get very busy in peak season.

WILD CAMPING: Whilst paying for accommodation can be good for access to a shower, to recharge electronics, and for meeting other travellers, many riders will prefer to wild camp for free the majority of the time outside of the larger towns. Because there is so much empty space along the route, it's generally very simple to find a quiet spot to pitch your tent, and the practice is common and widely accepted in Patagonia.

It's advisable to pick a spot that's out of sight, just to avoid any unwanted encounters, but provided you exercise common sense you shouldn't have any issues. You can also ask politely for permission to camp if you can find the landowner, and more often than not this will be happily given.

REFUGIOS: Another option is to stay in one of the Refugios, or wilderness huts, which are scattered throughout the region. Refugios are free, usually with no facilities other than perhaps a fireplace, and are first come first served, providing the luxury of a roof and protection from the elements.

Refugios along the Carretera can be busy in peak season, so at times you may still have to pitch your tent outside, but it can also be a lot of fun to share the space with other cyclists and backpackers travelling the route.

When wild camping or staying in Refugios, it's important to act respectfully, be careful with fire, make no mess, and please take any rubbish with you. 'Leave no trace' principles should always be exercised.

NAVIGATION

Part of the appeal of cycling the Carretera Austral is in its simplicity; it's very hard to get lost! The Carretera, known in Chile as Ruta 7, is well-signposted, and there are few turnoffs anyway, so navigation is never a worry on the route. That said, a map is still a good idea, especially if you are considering any detours for side activities.

MAPS: Paper maps can be purchased in Puerto Montt or in larger towns along the route, but it's also easy to use digital maps on your smartphone. Because it is so straightforward, no advanced mapping applications or knowledge are required for the Carretera, and even something as basic as Google Maps can be sufficient.

APPS: MAPS.ME is a free and easy-to-use app for both iOs and Android, so this is well worth downloading, whilst for iPhone users, I would highly recommend MapOut. Both MAPS.ME and MapOut allow you to download maps for offline use, which is very useful for the Carretera as you will not always have a cell signal for mobile data.

A fantastic resource which I would highly recommend you download is the ‘iOverlander’ smartphone application, which is available for free on both iPhone and Android. iOverlander has a huge amount of useful information, with everything from official campsites, lodges, refugios, wild camping spots, restaurants, shops, ferry schedules, and water sources all marked on the map, along with relevant information. It’s a huge boon for anyone cycling the Carretera, and South America in general, so iOverlander is highly recommended!

GPX ROUTE: The full route GPX can be viewed and downloaded below. Points of interest have been included as waypoints, so it's worth checking these for the locations and details of ferries, side activities, and towns for resupply.

RESUPPLY & WATER

RESUPPLY: Resupply along the route is generally straightforward as there are almost always towns at least every 50-100 kilometres where you can stock up. It's good practice to check the map regularly to see when the next resupply point will be, but generally, you never have to carry food for more than a day or two.

WATER ACCESS: Water is also very easy along the route; people will always be happy for you to refill your bottles at restaurants, shops or campsites in towns, and there is also an almost endless supply of water available from natural sources such as rivers and lakes.

WATER TREATMENT: Water from natural sources is usually safe to drink without treatment, but to be on the safe side a water filter is a good idea, so bringing one is recommended.

BICYCLE SELECTION & REPAIR

BEST BIKE TYPE – GRAVEL: Because the Carretera is non-technical and the road surfaces are varied, it is suitable for a wide variety of bicycle styles. With around 50% of the route being paved and 50% being unpaved, the ideal bicycle is arguably a gravel bike, with gravel tyres wide enough to provide comfort on the rougher gravel sections without adding too much weight or rolling resistance.

ALTERNATIVE BIKE TYPES: That said, as long as your bike is comfortable and reliable, you can ride the Carretera on just about anything. A mountain bike will be slower, especially on the paved sections, but will provide extra comfort and confidence when the road gets rough. A touring bicycle is a great all-around choice. My advice would be not to worry too much about the bicycle and to just use whatever you have.

The only bicycle type I would not recommend is a road bike, as you are likely to struggle on the gravel sections further south, although completing the route on even a road bike is perfectly possible if you don't mind discomfort.

BIKE CONDITION: More important than the bicycle type is ensuring that your bike is comfortable, reliable, and running smoothly; there can be long stretches between bicycle shops for repair, so you don't want your bike to fail in the middle of nowhere. There will be a fair amount of climbing on the Carretera, so it's also worth ensuring your bike has some low gears and well-functioning brakes for the descents.

BIKE REPAIR: Bicycle shops along the Carretera are rare, with Puerto Montt and Coyhaique having larger shops, and a few smaller places along the way which may be able to help if needed; these can all be found on Google Maps.

NON-BIKE TRANSPORT

BUS: If you run into bike problems or want to skip sections of the Carretera, it's possible to load your bike into the cargo hold of one of the buses which regularly ply the road; these generally stop in the larger settlements along the route. If taking a bus, expect to pay extra for the bicycle, and you may also have to partially disassemble it to make it fit.

HITCHHIKING: Hitchhiking is common along the Carretera and is perfectly possible even with a bicycle, although you might have to wait a long while. So. if you do have a major mechanical in the middle of nowhere which you can't repair yourself, flagging down a vehicle may be your only option, at least until you can reach a larger town.

Most locals in Patagonia are very friendly, so don't be afraid to ask for help if you need it; there is usually enough traffic on the road, at least outside of winter, that you never really need to worry about being stranded for long.

FERRIES: There are a number of ferries required along the Carretera, and these are generally very easy to organise, requiring no booking and little planning, at least in peak season. The only crossing which may be worth booking in advance is the ferry from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo, around 100 kilometres south of Puerto Montt. These have all been marked on the map for your reference.

WHAT TO PACK

RAIN GEAR: Aside from the usual necessities, I would strongly suggest investing in some quality rain gear, as it can sometimes pour for several days in a row on the Carretera. As well as a raincoat, rain pants are very nice to have, and investing in some waterproof socks and gloves is also advisable.

CLOTHING: Patagonia can sometimes get very cold, even in the summer, so pack warm clothes; merino wool is the best choice, providing good insulation and breathability, even when soaked through. I would recommend bringing along a Buff or similar face mask, as these are very helpful for protecting your mouth from dust during some of the dryer gravel sections.

CAMPING ESSENTIALS: Due to the distance between towns, it would be very difficult to cycle the Carretera without camping, so a good tent is required, as well as a warm sleeping bag and mat. I would suggest getting the best tent you can afford, but take care; as mentioned the weather in Patagonia can be rough so you want a tent that can stand up to a decent amount of rain and wind. Some ultralight shelters can be flimsy, and Patagonia has destroyed many a tent, so it's worth a bit of extra weight to get something durable.

A camping stove and cooking gear are very useful unless you are comfortable living on bread and biscuits; gas canisters can be purchased in bigger towns such as Puerto Montt, while alcohol fuel is widely available throughout. A water filter is advisable for peace of mind when drinking from natural sources.

BACKPACK: A backpack of some sort, even a minimalist packable backpack, is very useful if you want to do some hiking, and if you want to do some overnight trekking you may wish to bring a larger backpack with enough capacity to carry your camping gear and some food.

TOOLS: Due to the relative scarcity of bike shops, I would suggest carrying enough spare parts and tools to take care of the most common mechanical issues you are likely to face, and this is good practice on any bike trip, no matter where you're going. Power banks are useful for recharging electronics when wild camping between towns.

SIDE ACTIVITIES & DETOURS

Depending on how much extra time you want to spend, there are some great off-the-bike activities to be enjoyed along the Carretera. Some of these activities require detours, whilst others are right along the route. Unless you're very short on time, I'd strongly suggest allowing extra time for at least a few of these.

Patagonia is renowned for its walking trails, so I would also recommend bringing along a larger backpack so you can do some overnight hiking.

All of the following have also been marked as waypoints on our GPX route map, so planning is straightforward – I’ve listed them here based on their location, starting with the most northerly.

VALLE COCHAMO: Known as the Yosemite of the south, Cochamo is a spectacularly beautiful area with enormous granite mountains and incredible views. Cochamo is a day’s ride off the Carretera, which is a bit of a detour, so your best option may be to leave your bikes in Puerto Montt for a couple of days and take a bus or hitchhike out to Cochamo and back.

PUMALIN PARK: A very beautiful national park with a great deal of geographical variety, Pumalin park sits right along the Carretera so it’s well worth stopping to explore for a day or two.

FUTULEUFU: Like Cochamo, Futuleufú requires a bit of a detour, as it’s a day’s ride off the Carretera, but it’s worth the effort as it’s a lovely town with some stunning hikes and some of the best white water rafting on the planet. People travel to Futuleufú from all over the world for its rafting, so for the sake of one day’s ride (or a few hours hitchhiking), it’s definitely worthwhile to visit.

QUEULAT NATIONAL PARK: Another stunning national park with some fantastic hikes, worth visiting to check out the hanging glacier of Ventisquero.

VILLA CERRO CASTILLO: The town itself is unremarkable but there are some incredible hikes that start here, the most famous of which is the hike up to Laguna Cerro Castillo. If you have time, consider stopping here for a few days to explore more thoroughly.

LAGO LEONES: This hike, which takes you out to see another very beautiful glacier, is more rugged than most and is somewhat off the beaten track, but doesn’t take too long and it’s worth it to experience a wilder side to Patagonia.

PATAGONIA NATIONAL PARK & TAMANGO NATIONAL PARK: These neighbouring parks are both very scenic and are easily accessed from nearby Cochrane, so they are well worth a look.

CALETA TORTEL: A pretty coastal village built over the water, Tortel is a slight detour off the Carretera, but worth it if you have time.

EXTENSIONS

El Chaltén and Crossing Lago O'Higgins into Argentina

As an alternative to taking buses back to Coyhaique, many cyclists opt to continue a little further beyond the end of the Carretera with an adventurous crossing into Argentina via the magnificent Lago O'Higgins. This border is only possible for those on foot, with bicycles, or on horseback. It involves multiple ferries, as well as a challenging section of hike-a-bike through the rugged borderlands between Chile and Argentina.

For this crossing, you will first have to take a ferry from Villa O'Higgins, across Lago O'Higgins, to the small Chilean border checkpoint at the far side of the lake. The ferry only runs a few times a week even in peak season, and the crossings are irregular and often affected by the high winds which are common in the area, so you are likely to be stuck waiting in Lago O'Higgins for several days.

Reservations for the ferry are required, and in peak season, demand can be high. If taking the ferry, you also have the option of paying a little extra to make a detour out to see the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, which feeds into Lago O'Higgins. I would highly recommend doing this, as it's a sight you won't easily forget!

After crossing Lago O'Higgins, you'll have to get yourself stamped out of Chile, then proceed up the hill and down into Argentina. The Chilean half of this crossing is easy enough, being on good dirt roads, but as soon as you reach the Argentinian side the track devolves into a muddy, boggy trail, and you will frequently have to carry your bike through streams and over fallen trees. If you're heavily laden, this section will likely present a serious physical challenge, and even for those travelling very light, there will almost certainly be a fair amount of hike-a-bike.

Note that this crossing is also doable in the other direction, from south to north, but be aware that you may be waiting for a few days for the ferry on the opposite (southern) side of Lago O'Higgins, and unlike for those waiting in Villa O'Higgins, there are no shops on this side of the lake. There is a small farmhouse and campsite near the Chilean checkpoint where you can stay, but food there is very expensive, so you should bring supplies to keep you going for several days. Making the crossing from north to south is therefore quite a bit easier.

If going south, you'll eventually come out at the Argentinian border checkpoint, where you'll get your passport stamped into Argentina. From there, you can take another ferry across Lago del Desierto, and cycle the remaining 35 kilometres into El Chaltén.

El Chaltén is one of Patagonia's adventure capitals, with some of the best hikes and scenery on the continent, so I'd really recommend staying to explore. From El Chaltén, you can either cycle or take a bus to the town of El Calafate, 200 kilometres to the south. El Calafate has an airport with regular flights to Buenos Aires, so getting out from there is straightforward. Don't forget to check out the Perito Merino Glacier before you leave!

MORE INFORMATION

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