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Best Climbing Shoes of 2023

JUMP TO: LA SPORTIVA MIURA VS / LA SPORTIVA KATANA LACE / SCARPA DRAGO / LA SPORTIVA TC PRO / EVOLV SHAMAN / BUTORA ENDEAVOUR / FIVE TEN ANASAZI VCS / LA SPORTIVA TARANTULACE / BUYING ADVICE

Author: Tim Severino

The Short Version

The Long Version

There is no piece of equipment in climbing more important to your actual performance than the climbing shoe.

Think about it, every other piece of equipment you use is focused on your safety first and foremost – harnesses, ropes, hardware, slings and helmets. But shoes, oh the glorious shoes – they are the prime catalyst in increasing your performance.

Climbing shoes allow you to move your weight around effectively – perhaps gain a foothold where you thought there were none, or use that tiny ledge or crystal to hold your weight.–  Importantly – climbing shoes give you confidence to trust your feet, which is one of the most important aspects in improving your climbing abilities.

A good pair of climbing shoes should be the first thing you buy as a rock climber. Once fitted right, they will mold to your feet and assist your every move, with the rubber soles being highly effective at ‘sticking’ to the rock.

 
 

When your skills improve and you start to diversify your climbing techniques, you will start to look at different types of shoes for different types of climbing. Many avid climbers will own several pairs of shoes, and switch depending on the climbing they are doing.

  • Bouldering all afternoon? — A tight aggressive pair you can get on and off is what you need.

  • Trad climbing all day? — A more comfortable, form fitting shoe you can wear all day but still get that performance when needed is what you are after.

  • Or perhaps you like all types of climbing? — In which case there are all-rounder shoes versatile enough to do it all.

So read on for an in-depth guide to the best climbing shoes on the market today. Whatever your climbing style – you are sure to find the right pair to get you up the gym walls or out on the rocky crags.

If you love reading this review of the best rock climbing shoes, then you'll likely love reading some of our other climbing content:


Need To Know What To Look Out For?

From rubber materials to closure types, there is a lot of diversity in climbing shoes. If you are unsure about what to look for when shopping, then be sure to check out our buying advice at the bottom of the article.


Best Overall: LA SPORTIVA MIURA VS

MATERIALS: Leather and Dentex upper, Vibram XS Edge sole

CLOSURE: Three Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: All types of climbing

PROS: Best edging shoe out there, great for all types of climbing

CONS: Its arch can be a touch aggressive for some people

While there are many different brands of climbing shoes out there, when it comes to quality, one generally stands above the rest – La Sportiva.

This Italian company was founded in 1928 and since the 1950’s has been producing footwear for climbing, alpine sports and mountaineering. Quality materials and designs keep them at the top of the game and they have worked with (and sponsored) professional climbers for many years. There is a reason their shoes take up half our list!

The Velcro (VS) model of the La Sportiva Miura offers an aggressive fit. It is stiffer and more durable than the previous lace up version and so will hold up for years. This shoe is a favorite amongst climbers for its ability to get you up that short and sharp boulder problem and also be worn for a long day on the big wall trad climbing.

While many shoes cater to a specific style of climbing, the La Sportiva Miura is one that’s great on them all, whether it be long steep routes, edges or even crack climbing. If you like a wide range of climbing styles, and need an aggressive shoe that performs as you do - then this is the shoe for you.


Best for Versatility: LA SPORTIVA KATANA LACE

MATERIALS: Leather upper, Vibram XS Edge

CLOSURE: Shoe laces

DESIGNED FOR: All types of climbing

PROS: Form fitting toe, great for edging, laces create a more personalized fit, very durable

CONS: Bulky heel

The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one of the most popular shoes on the market and has been for many years due to its ability to fit many feet sizes and the fact it provides a good balance between comfort and performance.

The use of Vibram XS Edge rubber for its sole gives a sensitive yet also kinda stiff feel, at the same time making it effective for all types of climbing and all types of rock – be it edgy sandstone, crystalline smeary granite or over hanging limestone.

The balance of stiff and soft, along with the design, means you can climb all day on long missions and then still use them for that pesky boulder problem near your campsite early the next morning.

It’s not quite as aggressive as the La Sportiva Miura and as such can be a touch more comfortable whilst making a small sacrifice in overall performance. But for a truly versatile shoe – looks no further than the always popular La Sportiva Katana Lace.


Best for Sport Climbing: SCARPA DRAGO

MATERIALS: Synthetic upper with microfiber to minimize stretching, Vibram XS Edge rubber sole and soft M50 rand

CLOSURE: Single Velcro

DESIGNED FOR: Sport climbing

PROS: Exceptional sensitivity, can accommodate most foot shapes, comfortable and soft

CONS: Not great in crack climbing, not great for slim feet

Often when we are on the wall clipping bolts we start to focus too much on the next bolt and where our hands are going – so that we can reach subsequent safety. But, even as we approach that next bolt, we should still be using our feet as much as possible. And with the Scarpa Drago shoes - using your feet is a dream come true.

The Scarpa Drago is a well-designed shoe that fits snuggly, with a very soft mid sole that allows you to bend and flex so you can use any type of foothold easily. With the Scarpa Drago you can literally look down, see where your foot needs to go, and stick it without worry.

The heel is well designed and allows for a sturdy and comfortable heel hook for those that like to climb with their ankles above their ears. Plus this shoe is durable and will hold up for years. Like many shoes, stretching can be an issue, but due to the extra rand (the thin rubber around the sole), the Drago will stretch a little less than others.

This is a great shoe for performance– if you like to clip those bolts and push your grades. So if you need a shoe that will hold up to the rocks and allow you to feel all the small foot holds, then look no further than the Scarpa Drago.


Best for Traditional Climbing: LA SPORTIVA TC PRO

MATERIALS: Leather and synthetic upper, Vibram XS edge rubber sole

CLOSURE: Shoe laces

DESIGNED FOR: All day climbing

PROS: Comfortable for all day wear, great at edges and cracks, high ankle protection

CONS: Not great for bouldering or sport climbing

Some shoes just have to have a comfort level that allows you to wear them all day without your feet throbbing, even when hanging belay three pitches up. And yet they still need to maintain a solid performance capability when you hit that hard pitch later in the climb. Fortunately, the La Sportiva TC Pro is a climbing shoe that has been designed with these traits in mind.

You’d expect this shoe to be on point – it has been designed with the help of top US trad climber Tommy Caldwell, star of the ‘Dawn Wall’ (hence the TC). And with his help, La Sportiva has managed to balance performance and comfort extremely well.

These shoes are best at crack climbing, with a stiff mid sole providing extra support for foot jams. Nonetheless they are still flexible enough for edging and even smearing.

For those climbers who just love to trad climb, get into all day multi pitch, or have a crack at the truly big walls – the La Sportiva TC Pro is the best choice out there.


Best for Bouldering: EVOLV SHAMAN

MATERIALS: Synthetic upper and Trax SAS rubber sole

CLOSURE: Three Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: Bouldering, hard sport climbing

PROS: Tight and secure fit, amazing foot performance

CONS: Rubber is a tad soft and can wear out faster than normal

Bouldering has become such a large part of climbing over the past 30 years. And given that the only real equipment required is a decent pair of climbing shoes, it should come as no surprise that there are a lot of shoes now specifically made for bouldering.

The Evolv Shaman is a shoe this author has worn for years – having found that their performance is hard to beat. They are aggressive, great for small nubbins or edges, and excel at steep or overhanging climbs. The soft rubber allows you to feel the rocks more than other shoes do, thereby allowing you to focus on those hard bouldering moves.

Remember that whilst bouldering many climbers often only wear their shoes for minutes at a time – and therefore they can afford to sacrifice comfort for performance. So while they might not be the most comfortable shoe in the world – and not something you’d want to wear on super long climbs – due to their performance the Evolv Shaman is understandably a longtime favorite of bouldering climbers all around the world.


Best for Beginners: BUTORA ENDEAVOUR

MATERIALS: Leather and Hemp upper, Butora NEO Fuse sticky rubber sole

CLOSURE: Two Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: Beginners, everyday climbing

PROS: Great price for a lead in shoe, comfortable

CONS: Not great on vertical or overhanging terrain

While Butora don’t have the reputation of some of the older climbing brands, there is certainly nothing wrong with the shoes this Korean brand have been turning out for the last decade. The Butora Endeavour is about as good as it gets when it comes to an all-round beginner shoe.

The Velcro straps on these shoes allow you to adjust the width of the shoe to your foot – making them suitable for both wide and narrow feet. The adjustability in fit makes for a comfortable shoe – something beginners tend to prioritize – and also allows you to maintain a good amount of performance on the rocks or gym walls.

Other additions to the shoe include a hemp lining, which is relatively unique for a climbing shoe and  primarily targeted at indoor climbing where people tend to sweat more.

For climbers starting out on their journey, particularly those who like to mix it up between gym climbing and relatively easy outdoor climbing, the Butora Endeavour is the ideal beginner shoe. Plus, it comes with a great price tag to boot (pun intended).


Best for Comfort: FIVE TEN ANASAZI VCS

MATERIALS: Synthetic and leather upper, Stealth rubber sole

CLOSURE: Two Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: All-round climbing

PROS: Sensitive shoe that provides high performance with high comfort

CONS: Heel lacks some features, rand is small

The Five Ten Anasazi is a fantastic all-round shoe and could be a contender for the most versatile too. But its real strengths are providing sensitivity for the toes and maintaining a high degree of comfort.

While many new climbers think comfort is important and many climbers that push grades may argue that it’s not so much – there is no denying that when on long climbs, or multi pitch routes, comfort is an important factor.

For climbing instructors that spend long periods wearing a shoe, or for climbers looking to do long but relatively easy trad climbs, this is a shoe that can provide both performance and all day comfort.

It has enough movement on the Velcro straps to get most feet comfortably secured. It has a medium to stiff sole and uses stealth rubber for durability and performance. If being comfortable is your thing, but you still need to maintain a decent level of performance, then these Five Ten shoes will not disappoint.


Best on a Budget: LA SPORTIVA TARANTULACE

MATERIALS: Leather and Synthetic upper, FriXion RS rubber sole

CLOSURE: Shoe laces

DESIGNED FOR: Beginners, general climbing

PROS: Fast lacing system for ease of use, very affordable

CONS: Heel can be a little loose

Have you climbed once or twice and already been bitten by the climbing bug?

If so, and you are looking for your first pair of climbing shoes, then it’s difficult to go past the La Sportiva Tarantulace. Especially if you’re not yet willing to shell out all your money on your newfound sport!

With the Tarantulace, La Sportiva has brought the quality design and materials they are known for, and packaged it up into a no frills but super effective climbing shoe.

While it is clear that the Tarantulace doesn’t quite have the same design as higher end La Sportiva shoes, it’s also half the price. It’s designed with a flatter arch than other shoes, making it perform a little less. But it is still a shoe you can wear to the gym, the boulder, or the long crags and get the most out of your efforts.

With a price point far below many of the other climbing shoes listed here, the Tarantulace is hard for the budget conscious climber to look past. In our eyes at least, it is the number one budget climbing shoe on the market.


BUYING ADVICE FOR CLIMBING SHOES


Climbing experience and style

Not all climbing shoes are designed to be equal. Some are designed as all-rounders, some for performance, and some for comfort, so you need to match your shoe with your desired climbing style first and foremost. Below we touch on a few of the climbing styles that have special things to consider.

BEGINNERS: If you are a beginner, an “all-rounder” shoe is the only thing you should consider buying. These will allow you to climb all styles and all rock types – perfect for when you are learning what types of climbing you are most into. Plus, since outdoor climbing does wear down shoes, particularly the rubber around the big toe – it’s best to use a general shoe until your footwork becomes more effective.

BOULDERING: Bouldering requires high performance at reduced comfort. When bouldering, you spend shorter periods on the rock and are able to remove your shoes in between – meaning comfort is not such an important consideration. Plus, bouldering moves are often challenging and so performance is key. Ease of use (putting on an taking off) is also something to consider when bouldering – which likely means opting for Velcro straps or slippers, rather than laces.

BIG WALL: Big wall climbing requires a higher degree of comfort, since you will be wearing your climbing shoes for long periods. Nonetheless this needs to be balanced with performance and the type of shoe that performs may depend on the style of climbing and type of rock – e.g. slabs vs cracks. Knowing the type of climbing you enjoy the most will point you in the right direction for the shoe you will need.

Of course, many climbers enjoy multiple types of climbing  and therefore end up owning different shoes for different purposes. There is certainly nothing wrong with that if you have the budget! Even the best all-round climbing shoe can get worn down quickly – especially on certain types of granite.

 
 

Closure system

LACES: Laces offer a more nuanced fit to your foot with more options to tighten or loosen certain points, thereby helping to obtain a degree of comfort with performance. They take longer to put on and take off however, which isn’t a problem on long all-day climbs, but may be an inconvenience if you are bouldering.

VELCRO STRAPS: Velcro is extremely popular for its ease of use – you’ll be getting your shoes on and off much more quickly than if you had laces! You might not be able to “fine tune” the fit as well as you can with laces, but it’s not too far off – especially with two or three Velcro straps helping to dial in the right fit.

SLIPPER: Slipper type shoes use elastic on the sides. Their advantage it that you can put them on and/or remove them very quickly. Their disadvantage is that they generally provide a less secure fit.


Materials

RUBBER: There are many types of rubber on the market and brands often use different types for different shoes. An amazing amount of research has gone into these rubbers to ensure they do what they are supposed to — grip the rock.

Don’t be blinded by the names and numbers associated with the material — look more at how thick the rubber is (thicker means it takes longer to wear down) and how ‘sticky’ or soft the rubber is. Rubber soles maintain a balance between performance and durability, the softer they are the quicker they wear out.

Note that you can always re-sole shoes too if they wear out quicker than you anticipate, but resoling will come with reduced performance.


Sizing and fitting your shoes

SIZING: This is one of the hardest things to figure out, especially when you are a new climber. Ideally, your big toe needs to be touching the end of your shoe, but you don’t want it scrunched up to the point of major discomfort. Climbers know this and will factor it into their size selection, however new climbers often opt for a half or full size too big – since initially the shoe will feel more comfortable. Of course, as their climbing progresses and they need to use their feet more, they will find their performance suffers as a result of the larger shoe.

BRAND SIZING: Also, not all brands have the same sizing. Some are the same as street shoes whilst others are smaller, forcing your feet to contort.

ONLINE RETURNS: It’s a difficult ask to buy online without trying them on first, however both Amazon and REI offer returns, provided you haven’t taken them outside for a climb.


MORE INFORMATION

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